Midtown Cafe is the sort of neighborhood restaurant with loyal customers. They crave the crab cakes and lemon-artichoke soup that have been on the menu a long time.

Go for: Sophisticated but traditional, with new items offered as specials.

Atmosphere: Warm and cozy, if a little crowded. Nice to have the new glass half wall between the dining room and bar so diners get less smoke seeping across their tables.

Midtown Cafe

LOCATION: 102 19th Ave. S. 320-7176.

COST: Lunch entrees are $5.95-$16.95; dinner entrees are $11.95-$34.95.

HOURS: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday and 5-10 p.m. daily.

OTHER INFORMATION: Prix fixe, multicourse chef's tasting menu with or without wines available. The same dishes are offered a la carte in addition to the main menu. New glass panels separate the bar and smoking area from the main dining room. Broad list of vintage wines with many by the glass, including lots of popular favorites. Some sections of the list highlight certain vineyards such as Jepson and Geyser Peak. Barrier-free access, smoking permitted in bar area. All major credit cards accepted.

Food writer Thayer Wine can be reached at 726-8995 or twine@Tennessean.com. Reviews are written from anonymous visits to restaurants. Negative reviews are based on two or more visits. The Tennessean pays for all meals.